Gradi has a home at Crown Melbourne - Recalled To Life

There are too many "food blogs" in Melbourne. I always thought this one differentiated itself because it did not promote spin and it certainly did not romanticise restaurants that provided remuneration or compensation to "turn up" and of course take the requisite photographs that embodied the marketing theme that the campaign of the day dictated. It took a relaxing evening watching the Cricket recently and a few bottles of wine to realise that there are a fair amount of very poor blogs in cyberspace that only survive with marketing dollars or are just a weak photo essay; neither of which take any intelligence or thought just to provide some sort of lame advertising after the writer was compensated a free hamburger or dumpling. When I was passionate about posting on this site before there was never any spin and I never took a bribe to promote an agenda. With that being said, I will introduce Gradi at the Crown Casino in Melbourne which opened a few weeks ago, which has received the customary marketing blurbs in Time Out Melbourne and Gram Magazine, but there has been no formal review until now. Exciting, hey?

The dining room after the lunch rush: Gradi Crown Melbourne

The original and award-winning restaurant is not the newly opened location at the Crown Melbourne, but is in fact 400 Gradi on Lygon Street in Brunswick. This outpost became a talking point when it was recently awarded with the title of "World's Best Pizza" at the World Pizza Championships in Parma, Italy. Much like the awards that are sponsored by San Pellegrino and Lavassa Coffee, it is all subjective I feel. Much like hamburgers and steaks, what one person finds wonderful, another will scoff at and since pizza can be a visceral experience, usually consumed out of a box after making a phone call late at night with a dodgy television show on and a bottle of vodka, dishing out a "best pizza in the world" award is a stretch however I was still keen to taste this fabled creation during my tour de force.

The view of Cory Campbell without the helmet from Gradi

Located where the defunct and once one-hatted restaurant Guiseppe, Arnaldo & Sons once was underneath the Kings Way ramp that now features street art and a dedication to Cory Campbell at Vue de Monde, Gradi (dropping the 400) offers a new and sleek fit-out and falls in-line to the new look that Crown Melbourne is trying to promote - one that disavows the bogans (which take up residence in the newly renovated food court, much like the seagulls do on the promenade) but tries to suck those that are hard and fast with their money into their void, this humble writer included. The principal is Johnny Di Francesco who was not spotted when we visited midweek.

When I finally found the restaurant's telephone number after many clicks, the receptionist was very perky and hospitable. I didn't have a high expectation of this place when I rang however the professionalism and the energy put me in the mood to enjoy a long and relaxed lunch. We were ultimately greeted and seated without much fanfare however we were quickly presented with not only the food menu but the wine list where the vast majority of the vintages languished under the $100 mark.

The interior of Gradi Crown Melbourne

The menu was presented on a humble piece of paper with a pleasant typeset after which the staff invited us to enjoy salumi and formaggi to start - where we elected to indulge upon Hot Cacciatori ($12.50 for 70g) and Bufaletto ($23 for 70g) which when presented on a bed of flat bread which not only made for great presentation but provided utility in consuming the very tasty cheese and meat. The Bufaletto is allegedly DOC. I quizzed the waitron as to whether this was indeed a cheese that produced under the Italian laws enacted in 1955 to protect the names, origins, production methods and characteristics of Italian foods. She said "sure" so I am not sure that she really knew, but one has to give the benefit of the doubt in an Italian restaurant. The Hot Cacciatori was spicy - but not "hot" in terms of eradicating your innards but it made a comfortable starter whilst we engaged upon the beautiful Benanti 2012 'Bianco di Caselle' Etna Bianco. Yet another wine that has raised the bar in Italy, which was mineral-driven and very light which not only paired well with the salumi but the formaggi. There was enough wine left over to enjoy it with the Arancini Del Giorno - the crumbed Italian rice balls accompanied with mascarpone and a parmesan cream ($6/each) which really didn't do much for me besides leaving me thirsty.

The award winning Margherita Verace pizza

The Margherita Verace pizza ($21) is what the punters were flocking far and wide to devour after Johnny won the title of the "World's Best Pizza" so how could we resist? It looked nice and and I have to say it tasted pretty good (in comparison to Pepperoni's on Elizabeth Street after stumbling out pissed from Bar Americano recently comes to mind) however the base was soggy, which I really do not think was planned by the kitchen. I did expect more but then again, it is pizza so you can't hold it to the same standard as a medium rare David Blackmore wagyu at Rockpool Bar and Grill or Ben Shewry's potato at Attica.

The highlight was the next course, the Tagiatelle al tartufo e pecorino sardo ($46) - narrow ribbons of pasta prepared with truffle butter, pecorino sardo and shaved black truffle. This was a dish that was magic and when matched with the 2011 Zuani, yet another DOC wine, which was a blend of nearly everything possible made for the best matched dish of the day. The subdued almond flavours of the wine really complemented the freckled truffle-heavy and intense flavours in the pasta. This dish left an impression and left me really wanting more days after enjoying it.

Impepata di volgole - clams in a cool pot

The Impepata di volgole ($30) - sautéed clams with garlic, lemon, herbs, pepper and wine wine was the final dish. The presentation was lovely and the wedge of lemon did assist in relieving the alkaline taste, which really was not very distracting but more amusing paired with the Petite Arvine Valle d'Aosta, which is yet another DOC wine. I am not saying that I don't like pippis, but I expected more of a garlic flavour however they were fun to eat on the back of the third bottle of wine. The playful presentation in a cool pot left a whimsical impression and after polishing off the third bottle of wine, we ended the very relaxed lunch on a high.

Service was polished throughout the 3.5 hour experience, which is a testament to the processes and procedures that this very young restaurant have already put into place which is a credit to the management. There is a view to the Southbank Promenade but I wouldn't recommend trying to jostle for position as the majority of the outlook is the walkway eclipsed by the offramp that runs over the restaurant. Off course there is a view of street art commissioned by Melbourne City Council that can be enjoyed in between courses. Like with other Crown restaurants, the visiting masses are seemingly tourist and transitory. Would I return? Sure, but on a quarterly basis at most or when I need to entertain a customer.

Gradi
Crown Melbourne, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank VIC 3006
(03) 9696 9888
http://www.gradi.com.au
My Rating: 13.75/20
Service: 3.5/5
Ambiance: 3.5/5
Quality: 3.5/5
Value For Money: 3.25/5
X-Factor Multiplier: 1


Twitter: @epicurean3006
e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com
web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I posted this review, 44% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon like Gradi. Still, at the time there was a very limited review pool so it will be interesting to see how this changes over time.

Bistro Lilly Sydney - A Tribute to Marc and Cher Thomson (RIP)

I experienced a fair amount of shock and an extreme amount of sadness when I was first told that Marc and Cher Thompson, the owners of Bistro Lilly in Millers Point, Sydney, took their own lives. I then read the article in the Sydney Morning Herald and wondered how a restaurant - a business, could drive two seemingly happy and vivacious people, that had a true passion for their restaurant to commit suicide.

I had known the Thompsons since 2005 when Bistro Lilly opened at the base of Observatory Tower - the tall green tower that used to be the IBM buiding in the days of old, which casts a shadow on the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Not only does Paul Keating call this particular residential tower home but so does Lisa McGuigan who operates Kent Street Cellars at the street level. The Bistro Lilly restaurant superseded two other cafes that came and went in the previous few years and after visiting it for the first time, I really hoped that this French-inspired cafe would be successful as I was hooked.

Being a resident of Millers Point and living across the street until 2010 enabled me to call Bistro Lilly my "local" if a restaurant can in fact be considered one, but given the amount of times that I would take up residence at the small bar, chat with Marc and Cher for hours at a time and madly try to catch up on work e-mails throughout the evening whilst drinking a tremendous amount of wine, I suppose it is a suitable qualification.

When the evening service stopped, Marc, Cher, sometimes the service and frequently the chef and I would lament about life and times outside on the patio. Not only the challenges of opening and running a restaurant in highly competitive Sydney was a topic frequently discussed, but also politics, love, lust, food, wine and ultimately tall drunken tales early into the morning.

I spent more time speaking to Mark and Cher outside late at night compared to my own parents since I officially became an adult. They were truly lovely and genuine people that I considered not only neighbours but also friends. They will be missed.

On my last trip to Sydney I made a point of walking to Observatory Tower to leave some flowers outside of Bistro Lilly. The sad part is that there is so much corporate foot (and bicycle) traffic flowing from the pedestrian tunnel that connects Kent Street, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Clarence Street and York Street that would never have had the pleasure of stopping in at Bistro Lilly, enjoying the hospitality of the owners or the ever changing degustation menu that was always great value for money.

Regardless of the Sydney dining scene losing a fantastic bistro, friends, residents of Millers Point and the human race lost some fantastic people and for that I am both sad and angry.

The lesson learned is to support your local restaurants. Take time to get to know the owners and make these public places part of the community. Sometimes the people behind what ends up on the table are what is truly remarkable about a place.

I hope Marc and Cher can rest in peace.

The Everleigh - Only When You Lose Yourself

I don't tend to pay much attention to "Best of" guides and instead to create my own using trial and error and judge based on personal experiences without preconceived notions. Most tell you what you should think or feel, that or what to drink in the case of bars and one person's gin may not another person's vodka. When I drink, I go about my business in a very non-standard way. If at all possible, I want the venue to highlight their specialities and allow the barstaff carte blanc access to devise drinks using their creativity and more importantly experience where the ultimate damage it does to my credit card is incidental. The Everleigh in Fitzroy not only met my challenge but exceeded all of the expectations that I had when I walked in.

The aforementioned guides and "best of" lists have always been very kind to The Everleigh and it was frequently topping many of these lists. With Der Raum (note: Der Raum has closed as of February 2013) being renovated, I needed to find a new, exciting and cutting edge drinking hole and I can't say how pleased I was to make the acquaintance of the staff at The Everleigh. (Note: Der Raum is meant to re-open in February 2013)

Entering the bar, you will feel that you are in a different era; one where professionalism, attention to detail, service and courtesy are not only exuded by the staff, but the key word - courtesy - is expected of the patrons. Being a very orderly person, I really liked that if you are going to drink at this place that you are expected to be seated and of course take advantage of the very efficient table service but also relax and enjoy the surroundings, the anonymity of the private booths and more importantly nobody knocks into you or jostles you as they attempt to get into position at the bar as standing around is simply not allowed. This creates a very relaxed and managed environment that allows the staff to do what they do best.

There were two bartenders on duty when I was there on Saturday evening. They have to be the two of the hardest working bartenders that I have had the pleasure of baring witness to. I didn't need to consult the menu but instead gave the opportunity for the bar to produce what they thought was suitable based upon known preferences, mood and of course with an end game in mind since the spirits and heaviness of what is concocted is gradually changed so each drink builds on your last experience and your palate is not destroyed. Some bars like Der Raum have been very successful with their cocktail degustation option however The Everleigh does not do adhere to a degustation menu per se, what they devise and deliver is based upon pure consultation and for a hedonist, I was in my zone - transported to a bygone era where people were consultative, polite and the expectation of courtesy flowed both ways.

I couldn't fault The Everleigh and it would have had to be my best bar-based experience in some time.

The Everleigh

Link to review

1/150-156 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy VIC 3065

(03) 9416 2229

http://www.theeverleigh.com

My Rating: 20/20

Service: 5/5

Ambiance: 5/5

Quality: 5/5

Value For Money: 5/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 95% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also like The Everleigh. It is the first bar of 2013 that I have written about that I added the "Top 2013 Experience" tag to.

Coda - Baby Steps

I had been looking forward to visiting Coda Bar and Restaurant on Flinders Lane for many months now. After the restaurant won the Brown Brothers Wine List of the Year and Travis Howe won the Louis Roderer Sommelier of the Year awards respectively in the eponymous Age Good Food Guide, I knew that I was in for a special time.

There was a small furore in the press in May 2012 about Coda. Interestingly enough a happy couple presented themselves at the restaurant without a booking and asked if the restaurant could accommodate their hunger and provide a level of hospitality on the dark and cold Melbourne night. The restaurant said they could seat the couple at the bar so one of the patrons went outside and then pushed a large pram (with baby) into the restaurant. It was never communicated to Coda that the happy couple had a large pram with them (as they asked for two people to be accommodated) and when the restaurant informed the diners that in fact that they could not safely have the pram at the bar, a storm in a teacup ensued, The Age picked up the story and it was inferred that Coda refused service to the parents of the baby. After looking around Coda and inspecting the area around the bar, I can understand if the restaurant was filled to capacity why a large pram would have caused a hazard to the diners but also to the baby itself. How this story turned into something of national interest is beyond me however the tale still entertains me a bit.

The fit-out is minimalistic with exposed walls. As the restaurant is set virtually subterranean the windows that provide natural light from the street are located high on the wall. This causes the travellers of Flinders Lane some amusement as many people like to stop and glare down at the restaurant patrons. I don't know why this arrangement causes such surprise or entertainment to the casual wanderers of the street but I suppose some people are just easily entertained by other human beings. Still although you feel you are in a human zoo at times with the pedestrians  leering at you from the outside, the dining room is comfortable and doesn't get very noisy.

The menu is designed for diners to order multiple dishes and share. I always like this arrangement as it makes the experience more social. I couldn't wait to order the spanner crab with galangal, roasted chilli on a lime betel leaf ($6.80/each). It was fresh crab where the hint of chilli was playful and the lime betel leaf did not overwhelm the dish but actually complimented it. Sometimes I get concerned that chefs try to overdo dishes involving spanner crab but everything worked out well with this offering and I was very impressed. It tasted even better with the bottle of 2010 Punch Chardonnay which rested on its perch above our table and was quite restless during our afternoon dining.

A visually beautiful soft rice paper rolled with fresh tuna and wasabi ginger mayonnaise ($10/each) tasted as good as it looked. The Hervey Bay scallop with pearl tapioca and Yarra Valley salmon cavier ($7.80/each) conjured up memories of being in and around Fraser Island and the delectable seafood that is sourced in the area. Normally I feign hesitation when ordering scallops but since my relaxed mate was keen to go down the road of the edible bivalve mollusk, I could not refuse and I was just as impressed with this choice and greedily ate mine off of its shell in the middle of my feeding bowl.

The aptly named "That's Amore" buffalo mozzarella, zucchini fritters, mint and pea salad ($22) reminded me that I enjoy dishes this style too much and that I really need to start visiting the gym again this week. The mint and pea salad were not only a beautiful bright green but crunchy and very fresh. The presentation of the dish and when matched with the fritters and consumed with the Punch Chardonnay was magnificent. Along with the mozzarella, the tempura bugs with Roy Choi's kimchi, chilli salt and the soy dipping sauce ($18/each) were my favourite dishes. Such a good contrast - the tempura and the bugs and the chilli sauce, like with the spanner crab, was a nice surprise and the chilli once again did not overpower the dish and it left me impressed.

The char siu pork bun with picked vegetables and most importantly the chilli jam ($8/each) was memorable and has encouraged me to want to try to prepare this at home. The chilli jam was both sweet and spicy and really brought out the flavours of the pork bun and motivated me to have small tastes just so that I could make the experience last longer. Of course I could have just ordered another round but that would have been too easy. The tour de force concluded with the blackened quail, daikon and shiso salad ($7.80/each) at the recommendation of the house.

If our engorged stomachs did not prevent us from consuming anything else we would have ordered more as there are some other very exciting items on the menu however after the positive experience, it will just cause me to return to Coda soon to continue the epicurean journey through the menu, the next time trying some of the larger share plates (the sizzling king prawns and the duck curry seem like they would be great) but also some of the desserts but that sort of reward should only be given after actually returning to the gym this week otherwise I will be rolling down Flinders Lane when I next stumble out of Coda.

Coda Bar and Restaurant

Link to review

141 Flinders Lane, Melbourne VIC 3000

03 9650 3155

http://www.codarestaurant.com.au

My Rating: 14.75/20

Service: 3.5/5

Ambiance: 3.5/5

Quality: 3.75/5

Value For Money: 4/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 87% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also like Coda.

Stokehouse Cafe - Nouveau Riche Defined

There was a certain amount of buzz when Leonardo DiCaprio was in Sydney enjoying the company of the local lovely ladies and of course filming The Great Gatsby which is supposed to be a triumph (sic) of Hollywood film-making. Much like Leo's visit was highly anticipated in Sydney and like some are looking forward to this movie, I was anticipating the opening of the newly renovated Stokehouse Cafe on Jacka Boulevard, downstairs from the original Stokehouse, for many long months whilst I watched the construction evolve.

Putting both the "upstairs" and "downstairs" of the Stokehouse in perspective is like pondering the overarching themes in The Great Gatsby. The "Upstairs" formal restaurant at the Stokehouse, like in East Egg in the Gatsby world is the fashionable, high-status, conservative, old money crowd where characters like Tom and Daisy from the book would be prone to dine. The "downstairs" cafe, like in the West Egg of the Gatsby world, is less fashionable and less moneyed - "nouveau riche" by definition.

The Stokehouse Cafe is a great place to "people-watch" both outside on the St Kilda esplanade if you are one of the fortunate ones to get one of the few tables that are seemingly occupied by the same people for hours at a time drinking their same glass of water, but also inside as it is a virtual rogues gallery of locals, holiday-makers and desperate housewives to say the least.

When I presented myself to the kiosk with one other and requested a table, we decided to sit at the bar as it gave us some views of Port Phillip Bay which are not commanding when sitting on the floor considering inevitably one person would have their back to the view. It also gave me an opportunity to observe the kitchen which in retrospect was more fascinating compared to the bay and the people roaming around on the esplanade from afar. The kitchen really has their act together and manage a huge amount of orders in short period of time. The food rarely backed up and I observed an attention to detail that is not usually afforded to the customer in a cafe, however since this one carries the Stokehouse name, I expected nothing less really.

Two cuttlefish skewers with lemon, chilli and parsley ($12) were ordered to share as a starter. Given that the kitchen at any given time had around 25 active tickets, I was surprised to see this starter come out in a reasonable time. In fact I was impressed. The cuttlefish was good however I would have liked to have seen more chilli, but that is just a personal preference. Given the high volume of food that this place produces and the heavy seasonal and transient crowd, I am not surprised that the spice factor is kept very low.

For the mains, for the lack of a better word, but I would refer to them as a continuation, a chilli dog - made of spicy pork sausage, manchego, and jalapeno mayonnaise ($8) was ordered along with the "special" Rangers valley rump steak "from the pit" with chermoula ($28) along with a side of a reasonably priced ($8) Sicilian potato salad. I simply tasted the jalapeno mayonnaise and found it both creamy with once again not much heat, but I was told that it complimented the sausage well. I was surprised to see a chermoula complimenting a rump steak from their "pit" as the flavour of the Moroccan paste overwhelmed the flavours that the fire pit would have given the steak. As a bonus, you do receive a fair amount of steak, in my case, three pieces however my preference would for the cafe to increase the quality of the steak and decrease the portion size.

A chocolate, peanut butter and jelly ice cream sandwich ($10) along with a baked cherry cheesecake ($9) finished us off. Good summer desserts. The staff were very attentive and were always happy to provide drink refills without being asked. Given the high volume of people, there is well proportioned amount of staff, all of them very busy and professional.

The Stokehouse Cafe is not meant to be a fine dining location. It is supposed to be a casual place to dine, relax, meet friends and have simple yet decent food. Besides the steak, I did not find the portion sizes huge but what you do not get in quantity, you are compensated with quality. This is beach-front dining on the St Kilda esplanade and not Qualia on Hamilton Island so you are going to see tourists with prams, people wandering in with their shirt off and in different states of undress and all sorts of nonsense that you would never see upstairs, but does that matter? If you keep your perspective, a good time will be had and your will enjoy yourself like I did.

Stokehouse Cafe

Link to review

30 Jacka Blvd., St Kilda VIC 3182
(03) 9421 4599

http://www.stokehousecafe.com.au

My Rating: 13/20

Service: 3/5

Ambiance: 3.25/5

Quality: 3.25/5

Value For Money: 3.5/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 57% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also like Stokehouse Cafe however with 38 votes at the time of this writing, it is a small sample.

Don Don Swanson Street - Cheap Monday

After paying my credit card bill for the previous month of debauchery, I thought it would be appropriate if not necessary to visit a few smaller and cheaper places and find a few winners around Melbourne before the weekend comes (or I lose interest in this phase) and I continue my epicurean journey through The Age Good Food Guide winners and of course drink at some new bars just for fun since I haven't done a rambling review of a drinking hole in a while.

It was with only a few pink notes and coins on my person I went out yesterday looking for "cheap eats" which are not really fun to write about as not much has to be involved in the decision making process to buy something cheap and cheerful and go on your merry way. If you find it disgusting or delightful, you really don't take the time to tell your friends because what did you lose in the end? A $10 note? Surely nobody wants to read about such a tale on here. I suppose I will find out.

So I meandered to Don Don on the corner of Swanston Street and Little Lonsdale Street. It is known seemingly as a popular Japanese teppanyaki takeaway and on this occasion, the queue for service was spilled out on to the street. Still being in a relaxed holiday mode, I had nowhere else to be so I happily joined the queue to see what all the fuss was about.

This is a small venue and doesn't accommodate many seats for the ravenous diners. By the time I got to the counter and placed an order for a Teriyaki Chicken ($7) sweat was dripping down my back and through other crevasses throughout my body. It was hot in this place and with two queues; one for service and one to pick up food, I can't say it would have been very comfortable for the handful of people that choose to eat in the amazon rainforest-like conditions.

After ordering, I joined the other queue to pick up my order, I was amazed at how efficient the staff were in getting punters out of there and filling orders. As there are a few tables outside and of course the green grass outside of the State Library across the street, there are other relaxed facilities to eat what incidentally I found find to be tasty takeaway. Cheap and cheerful indeed which beats the flavour of anything that you would get at Melbourne Central. I found very little cartilage attached to the chicken, which was freshly grilled. It is really good value for money in the area and you don't mind having a good sweat it is worth a visit.

Top it off with a $1 large frozen coke from Hungry Jack's and a $7 ticket to see "Quartet" at the Palace Kino cinema and I was able to occupy myself and be satisfied for $15 all up for the afternoon. Now that is a cheap Monday worth writing and talking about.

Don Don

Link to review

321 Swanston Street, Melbourne VIC 3000
(03) 9662 3377

no web site

My Rating:N/A

Service: n/a

Ambiance: n/a

Quality: n/a

Value For Money: n/a

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 92% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also like Don Don Swanston Street.

Paco's Tacos - Frank is probably at Mamasita

Original review published on 15/07/2012 and updated for currency and re-rated after two revisits on 07/12/2012.

Having visited Mexico multiple times and becoming accustomed to dirty street "authentic" food, I always visit new Mexican-inspired eateries with both trepidation and anxiety. When I learned that Movida was launching Paco's Tacos in the forecourt outside of their Movida Aqui restaurant I was hopeful that they would get it right and I would have a place where I could easily wander to from Southbank and enjoy comfort food in a relaxed outdoor area on demand.

When I first wrote a review about Paco's Tacos, I was indifferent to the experience but after revisiting it another two times over the last three months, my perception has changed. During the lunch time rush at 500 Bourke Street, the office workers inundate this place, smoke the dreaded cancer sticks and no doubt ponder their forthcoming urgent meetings whilst enjoying $6 tacos. I have come to enjoy the Carnitas (pulled pork with pineapple sauce) along with the Carne Asada (braised beef, chipotle and carne asada) however have taken a recent fancy to the Pescado (marinated fish, chipotle and radish) however at times I have found the fish to be very moist and the taco to be very messy so if you are wearing your best Armani suit, beware.

The biggest drawback to this place that I have found is that there never seems to be enough staff working behind the counter to meet the demand. In this brave new world where everyone pays with a plastic card and only one register can accommodate this payment method, every time I have frequented this place this shortcoming to their infrastructure has caused some massive bottlenecks and queues. The staff also must endure special requests to modify the $6 tacos (hold the salsa, hold the rice, hold the shell, etc) whilst organising beverages and dealing with the register. Once they streamline the service counter, this place will rock.

As we move from spring to summer, I am finding the forecourt where Paco's Tacos to be located (outside of MoVida Aqui) to be a very relaxed and convenient location. They do have a good selection of Mexican beer and not just the piss that is known as Corona and also sangria available however personally I do not like the recipe that they use.

Paco's Tacos
Link to review
1/500-512 Bourke Street  Melbourne VIC 3000
(03) 9663 3038
http://www.pacostacos.com.au
My Rating: 12.5/20
Service: 2.5/5
Ambiance: 3.5/5
Quality: 3/5
Value For Money: 3.5/5
Comment: All tacos are $6

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this repost, 74% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon like Paco's Tacos.

Koko - You're Frozen (when your heart's not open)

After a very calorie intensive week spent at Virginia Plain, Pei Modern and Rosetta, I thought I would hunt down some "healthy" sushi and sashimi and try a place that has been on my list for quite a while, the amusingly named Koko located on the 3rd level of Crown Casino in Southbank.

A warm welcome was had upon entering Koko. Looking around you will find teppanyaki tables, other tables reserved for a la carte dining along the glass wall that overlooks the Southbank Promenade and the beautiful (sic) Yarra River and a small sushi bar that can seat six people. We choose the sushi bar and were immediately seated and offered water and the wine list.

The amount of fish on offer was not huge but unlike other sushi bars, like at Sake, Koko doesn't give the false impression of having a tremendous variety of fish by stacking it up in repeating intervals down the refrigerated display cocoon. I informed the chef that were we not wanting to make many decisions so we left the choices with him. The usual sashimi suspects were served which included tuna, salmon, kingfish and octopus which were all as you would expect. The highlight for the first round of food was the spicy scallop roll. It was full of flavour but highlighted by the horseradish component of the wasabi as they did not use true "real" wasabi, but the bastardised version that is primarily horseradish. A twitter follower also highlighted this to me - it is queer that they offer such a premium product but then have fake wasabi to accompany it.

To finish off my meal, I ordered sea urchin (Uni) and it was beautiful. I got talking with the chef and told him that I am usually sullen whilst enjoying sushi as Toro (the fatty underbelly of tuna) is rarely available. He said that they had some available and not having enjoyed any for over a year, it left me on a high of anticipation. I finished my meal with Toro after happily devouring my Uni with the sake however I was bemused because the Toro had been previously frozen. The chef verified this. Although it was beautiful, it was nothing like what I previously had at Azuma in Sydney which was freshly procured and served the day that it had arrived.

The restaurant is beautiful and the service was very regimented and professional. There is always someone lurking in the area waiting for a glance from you so that an order can be taken or in our case, dishes replaced, chopsticks returned to their default resting position and our sake glasses refreshed with what seemed like a never-ending bottle on the day that I visited.

What I found interesting is that in the middle of the restaurant is a pond. I asked the very affable sushi chef if anyone ever has fallen in it. He did say a few drunks had in the past and it makes for good entertainment later in the evening. That certainly would beat the cabaret experience at Dracula's and it would be something that I would return to see.

Strangely when I commenced writing this, I started thinking of the old Madonna song "Frozen" when I first thought about Koko. It is probably not the best association as I am not a Madonna fan and it isn't good to reference perhaps my favourite cut of fish being served defrosted or even the fact that such delicate flavours are complimented with fake wasabi. I thought about this occasionally over the last three days and it made me angry actually because I really wanted to have a "local" sushi bar to stop around at and I really wanted Koko to be the place. Sadly it will not be.

Koko
Link to review
Level 3, Crown Casino Southbank VIC 3006
(03) 9292 6886
http://www.crownmelbourne.com.au/koko
My Rating: 13.5/20
Service: 4/5
Ambiance: 4/5
Quality: 3/5
Value For Money: 2.5/5
Comment: Great Uni, view and ambiance



Twitter: @epicurean3006
e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com
web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I made this post originally, 84% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also liked Koko. In general I did also but as I wrote, there are still aspects of my experience that still make me angry.

Meatball & Wine Bar - Interesting Concept

I originally literally stumbled into the Meatball & Wine Bar on Flinders Lane quite by accident after enjoying one of the best meals that I have had since I started writing this blog at Movida. This trip, I purely wanted wine to continue my alcohol-fuelled afternoon of debauchery and when I saw "Wine Bar" I knew that my needs would, or should, be satisfied.

Like a drunken sailor, I was drawn to the songs of the sirens in the establishment peddling a legal vice and I was very intrigued as my eyes inspected the establishment. The wine glasses, napkins and chairs were aligned with precision, which I knew would have been a painstaking task and probably not appreciated by the diners and drinkers who frequented this place earlier for lunch however I found it very pleasing and professional.

Upon entering, we were greeted by many people including the barman and we took a seat at the bar so I could read the wine list, and was surprised because it was such a quick read. As I enjoyed my Shiraz, I bathed in the atmosphere, which I really enjoyed and vowed to return soon.

One cold night a week later, I returned to Meatball & Wine Bar with my learned friend. The place was packed and we were lucky to get a seat near the door. The noise of the patrons normally would not make pleasant conversation a challenge however the restaurant adds music to the ambiance so you must compete with it. It does add to the atmosphere in a way and is not distracting or painful like what you find at Nobu, however when the restaurant is packed, it probably doesn't need to be on so loud but that is just a personal opinion.

I like the concept of meatballs and wine in general. The menu was simple and visually appealing however despite having "perfect" eyesight, I found some parts of it a challenge to read because of what I can assume to be a 6-point font size. The advertised specials were both fun and intriguing at the same time and my interest was piqued when I read that "Guy Grossi's Balls" were one of the specials. Having met Guy once in his restaurant and of course seeing him on Channel 7 from time to time, I was not quite sure that I wanted to associate the restaurant special with what is in his trousers especially since if what was served was especially small or distorted, but it was good fun and what arrived was very tasty and I must admit, looked like a scrotum. I ate Guy Grossi's balls. I never thought I would say that.

It wasn't difficult to keep ordering more meatballs off the menu. The chicken and fish balls were good however one had already fallen apart when it was served. It wasn't a big deal because I still subscribed to the concept of the place and was having fun and could not possibly take a split meatball too seriously.

When people began to depart, we moved tables and got away from the door. One of the staff it would seem finished her shift, left and returned to eat and drink at the bar. I then observed many of the staff take turns eating something at the bar whilst the customers were still enjoying their respective experiences. Although service never suffered per se, I thought it was bold of the management to encourage or support the staff to eat at the bar whilst customers are still in the restaurant. I do not see that happen too often, however when put into perspective, this is a fun and lively venue which should not be constrained to stuffy interpretations of what "should be" done and provided that the customer is taken care of, which we were, should it matter?

I liked the place and the concept. I do look forward to watching their wine list evolve and perhaps being able to experience Shannon Bennett's or Ben Shewry's balls during a future visit. After the council elections, we may even have Robert Doyle's as a special.

Meatball & Wine Bar
Link to review
135 Flinders Lane Melbourne VIC 3000
(03) 9654 7545
http://www.meatballandwinebar.com.au
My Rating: 13.5/20
Service: 3/5
Ambiance: 3.5/5
Quality: 3/5
Value For Money: 4/5
Comment: Group bookings only accepted


Twitter: @epicurean3006
e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com
web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I made this post originally, 86% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also liked Meatball & Wine Bar.

A Stub: The Cricketers Arms Hotel in Port Melbourne

As I need to leave for the airport shortly, I thought I would do a quick post about somewhere that I found recently where it doesn't seem appropriate to compose the same amount of prose that you would find in the first chapter of a Charles Dickens novel - like you will find in my other blog posts.

After my visit to NSHRY the other week, I found myself staggering into The Cricketers Arms Hotel in Port Melbourne. It is truly a hole in a wall, found on Cruikshank Street, which is a residential area. Locals and old timers prop up the bar. The hounds race on Sky however there are no TAB facilities. Everyone seems to know everyone else. We stumbled in to this place on the walk back to the CBD and just wanted one beer, which seemed like a prerequisite for the long walk back. However if I did not go on the hunt for the toilet, I would never have come across the beer garden out back.

What a great outdoor area. There is a bar outside, televisions and ample room for about 100 people. Two spits were working away. One had a pig and the other a lamb twirling about, being cooked for the evening festivities. A plate of the respective beast is $15 and a roll is $7.50. I wanted to hold out for a roll, which required about four more beers before it was served. It was great and worth chilling out outside on the balmy spring evening (which was the only one so far this season) having pleasant conversation and just enjoying life.

The lesson learned though is to get in the queue early to get your allocation of the beast otherwise the wait is pretty long as my mate found out.

I would recommend visiting this hole in the wall if you are in the area. It was a fun and relaxing experience.


Twitter: @epicurean3006
e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com
web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I made this post originally, 88% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also liked The Cricketers Arms Hotel.

Nobu - From Malibu to Melbourne

When part owner Robert De Niro quietly slipped into the country earlier in the year and opened Nobu at Crown in Perth, there were effectively 25 Nobu Restaurants around the world. Most people do not realise the size of the Nobu Matsuhisa juggernaut and if you factor in his non-Nobu restaurants, cookbooks and other merchandise, his net worth is in the same realm as that of Gordon Ramsay. Perhaps because Nobu isn't seemingly everywhere shouting, swearing and playing out his personal life in the tabloids that the masses in Australia haven't bothered much with his "new style" Japanese cuisine.

My first experience at Nobu was in Malibu, California. The restaurant is small, dark and intimate. During the meal, my mate pointed out that Alicia Silverstone was at the table next to us. I glanced at her. She glanced at me. I then returned to the age old practice of dropping slivers of yellowtail down my gullet. It was a magical night.

Flash forward to 2007 when Nobu opened at the Crown Melbourne. I could barely contain my excitement. It was not long before I had made a booking and fled Sydney, frothing at the mouth in anticipation. Perhaps it was because I romanticised my experience at Nobu Malibu or was clutching to memories of a bygone era, but what I found was completely different than what I expected.

Over the last five years, I can count the amount of times that I have returned to Nobu Melbourne on one hand. Once I had planned to eat there after a very long relaxing afternoon at Walter's Wine Bar but I was too intoxicated and instead opted to visit Maccas. There was another failed attempt to enjoy a relaxing lunch there a few months ago however I arrived too late for service and instead retreated to the Meat & Wine Co. However I did finally get my act together recently, made a dinner booking for two and only enjoyed three beverages from The Den before presenting myself 45 minutes early for my reservation at the restaurant.

We were escorted to seats at the bar by a very attractive and vivacious hostess and informed that our table would be ready shortly. I stated that there was no rush especially since we were so early and I was confident that the barman would look after us. After walking 20 metres from The Den to Nobu, we had developed quite a thirst, so a carafe of Hokusetsu Daiginjo cold sake was ordered and delivered in hollowed out piece of bamboo.

Later we were led downstairs to our table by yet another attractive hostess. This is where the experience becomes conflicting. Nobu Malibu was dark and intimate. Downstairs at Nobu Melbourne is a larger busy room that can get loud and it isn't just the patrons that one must contend with that creates the noise. Strangely they play music through wall mounted speakers and at times you feel like you have to talk over the tunes which doesn't nicely integrate into the ambiance. It works well at Izakaya Den but it serves as an annoyance here. This is what I remembered primarily after my first visit in 2007 and things have not changed as of this writing. With such beautiful and sometimes delicate food, I find the ambiance a bit of a turn off and it distracts from the great fish.

On my last visit I experienced a nine course set degustation menu and the restaurant managed to present all of the courses to us within one hour. Although I left full, after paying the bill I thought that it was not a relaxing experience and felt very rushed. I was looking forward to ordering individual items this time around with the hope that the routine would be drawn out a bit.

The first dish that was delivered was the Tuna Tatake with Tozasu. It looked and tasted great. I thought it was a perfect start and was ready to forgive them for playing the music as because the dining room was not packed, it was not that loud. Like magic, as soon as the six pieces of tuna were devoured, one of the two Nobu signature dishes, Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapenos arrived. It was truly a work of art and polarising tastes fought to be noticed in my mouth. I wanted to lick the plate clean however at this point I still had not drank enough sake to begin acting like a fool.

After finishing the amazing Yellowtail, a minute later the Sashimi Tacos arrived. There were four mini tacos, each filled with a different variant of sashimi: yellowtail, lobster, crab and salmon. Sadly the taco shell overwhelms the taste of the fish and you are left wondering what it is you ate after adding some of the salsa that was provided. I really wanted to like this dish because of my love affair with Mexican fish tacos, but I just couldn't.

Before taking on the last three highly anticipated dishes, we enjoyed a Nobu Shooter of Uni, which was delightful. The most expensive ($45) cold dish, the Toro Tartare with Wasabi, Soy and Cavier then arrived. This dish, like all of the others was presented beautifully. The first taste transports you to a happy place where thoughts of gridlock, social media, sin and vice literally disappear from your being as you savour this delectable tartare. As it is delivered in a small bowl of soy, to enjoy the last remaining morsels you are forced to be rude and drink from the bowl, or should I say slurp up the last bits up like a heathen. Sometimes being rude and exhibiting a table manner related crime is acceptable and in the case of this dish, it really is.

The Swordfish with Grape Spicy Shiso Ponzu then arrived. I looked at my watch and only 45 minutes had lapsed since we sat down. Once again, I started feeling rushed but then again, I could not wait to start deconstructing the last of the cold dishes that we ordered. This was the best presented dish and if there was ever one that I wanted to take a photo of and post on this blog, it would be this one. Another stunning dish, both visually and on your palette. You are left wanting more.

There are two "signature" Nobu dishes. The first being the aforementioned Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalepeno. The other is the only warm dish that we ordered, the Black Cod Miso. Although it is not visually stunning, the fish literally melts in your mouth and resembles dealing with soft butter in a hot pan. It was perfect.

Not wanting to leave, we ordered some sushi and after being informed at 9:45 PM that the kitchen was closing, decided to pull up stumps. In the end, the experience lasted for 90 minutes downstairs in the restaurant, which was still a bit abbreviated and I still felt rushed. At one point the empty Uni shooter glasses, the dish that used to have the Toro Tartare and the Black Cod Miso adourned our table as our offerings were coming out fast and furious.

Wonderful food is let down by the ambiance and for me the big time rush where I was never able to relax. Sometimes though, it is really the food that matters and if you are looking for Japanese food that will impress, this is the place.

Nobu
Link to review
8 Whiteman Street  Southbank VIC 3006
(03) 9292 7879
http://www.noburestaurants.com/melbourne
My Rating: 13/20
Service: 3.5/5
Ambiance: 2.5/5
Quality: 4.5/5
Value For Money: 2.5/5
Comment: Black Cod Miso will change your life


Twitter: @epicurean3006
e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com
web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I made this post originally, 79% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also liked Nobu.