Jacques Reymond - Take Me Home

When I first threw open the front door to Jacques Reymond, which is located in a stately Victorian mansion on a leafy suburban Prahran road a little over a year ago I knew that I found somewhere special. After returning last week to placate my hungry self with their degustation and matched wine option, it not only felt like I never left but it reminded me of home. Don't assume that I grew up in a Victorian mansion but I use the word "home" in the romanticised way that we dream on occasion of having a kept life filled with wonders and perfection. I know that I strive to get closer to that goal on a daily basis and since reintroducing the world of Jacques Reymond into my life, I have effectively moved one step closer to living the dream.

It had been over a year since I dined in the restaurant and I didn't even live in Melbourne at the time. Seeing familiar faces working on the night is a testament to the restaurant as they are able to retain quality staff for long periods of time. The familiarity in turn immediately brought a sense of calm as we were escorted by the maître d', a very affable chap called Gareth, that not only recalled my last visit to the restaurant but assured me that the same table near the fireplace and most importantly the Dom Pérignon branded card was being made available for the festivities which I suppose I have garnered quite the reputation for enjoying.

As we settled into the corner, the sommelier provided us glasses of 2003 Dom Pérignon to take the edge off not knowing that we had assimilated into the comfortable seats in my favourite corner of the world quickly and easily. It was with no hesitation that we announced that we would be enjoying the nine course degustation with matching wines and after uttering the one sentence, the biggest decision of the day was made. Jacques Reymond also serves from I can tell quite a stellar and comprehensive vegetarian-based degustation menu. After David Chang made headlines when he proclaimed that he would not cater for vegetarians (which I am not close to being but I know a few) it is refreshing to see a renowned restaurant and chef making the effort to cater for this lifestyle choice.

Proceedings commenced with a contrast of ocean trout - both slow cooked and smoked being matched with a 2010 Kientzler Gewürztraminer from Alsace Ribeauvillé, France. Stark contrasts with the trout and a very aptly paired wine along with the sharp, knowledgeable, professional and engaging restaurant team made the first course perfect in every way. The sommelier was always happy to top up the wine glasses and seemingly had eyes in the back of his head as he always knew when my allocated supply was about to be exhausted.

Moreton Bay bugs on fresh soba noodles, wild succulents with carmelised black vinegar followed along with a 2009 Peregrine ‘Rastasburn’ Riesling, Central Otago, New Zealand was next to make its grand appearance. The carmelised black vinegar really brought out the flavour of the bug. At first I thought the vinegar would kill the dish but I was dead wrong. The Kiwi wine was a safe match and worked well. It would have been interesting to see a match from Queensland just to keep the theme alive however the fruit in the Riesling really shined, as decent selections usually do from across the ditch.

Perhaps it is just a preference, but I always find John Dory boring. The restaurant has taken this wallflower and dressed it up like a high class lady of the night with Szechuan pepper, smoked palm sugar, lemon and black olives and effectively made the fish into a very exciting offering where you are tempted to go in and enjoy each bite more and more. The Szechuan pepper really brought this fish to life and matched with Jacques Reymond's own 2010 Toolangi Estate Chardonnay from the Yarra, I was extremely impressed.

Flinders Island Meats must be working double shifts over the festive season as Flinders Island wallaby has not just found its way onto diners plates at Attica but also at Jacques Reymond. The wallaby course here took on a more elaborate fare being accompanied with a lamb dumpling and served in its own juices. A 2009 Poulsard, Jacques Puffeney from Arbois, Jura, France was paired with the rare beef and like when I visited Attica, made the wallaby dish my favourite for the evening. I still ponder the contrasting flavours as Ben Shewry matches his Wallaby dish with an Italian wine where Jacques Reymond instead chooses the darker and bolder French wine. Two distinct styles along with methods to prepare the beast - however both interpretations were liked by this plebeian.

Not to be outdone, one of the more bizarre food pairings took place next. Highland venison tataki and spanner crab. Spanner crab, when prepared properly is one of my favourite dishes but I was excited yet nervous to see it accompany venison tataki especially since it was being matched with the big and bold 2009 Poulsard, like with the rare wallaby. All I can say is "Bloody amazing!" and when dressed with the fresh Tasmanian wasabi, I understood why Jacques wanted to follow the Wallaby with this dish and the same wine.

Liguarian honey glazed Pekin duck with picked cherry and barbajuan was then presented with 2009 Monthelie 1^er Cru ‘Sur la Velle’ Domaine Rèmi Jobard from Burgundy, France. Not to be confused with "Peking" duck, the Pekin duck is primarily used for egg and meat production. After the huge flavours associated with the venison and wallaby, the duck brought my palate back down to Earth. The honey and cherry flavours emboldened the 1^er Cru wine whereas the duck, continued on with the "wow" factor that remained consistent with all of the courses throughout the evening.

Veal fillet dolce forte with sea urchin butter and lard potatoes followed. I tend to like my sea urchin raw and accompanied with a quail egg in Japanese restaurants and I was most impressed with the sea urchin butter and how it made the veal fillet taste. The lard potatoes were appropriate to serve with this flavour intensive course and matched with an old and classy 1993 Lindeman’s ‘Limestone’s Ridge’ Shiraz Cabernet, Coonawarra, SA, I really had to start questioning whether or not the wallaby was ultimately going to be my favourite dish in the end as this one was certainly a contender. The nuances afforded by the veal when matched with the sea urchin butter are just sublime.

A white chocolate mojito with apricot, mango and strawberry was the first of two dessert courses to arrive. This one was matched with non-vintage Billecart-Salmon Demi Sec from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, France. This was was followed by Venezuela origine rare chocolate and Mt Buffalo hazelnuts, passionfruit, infusion of tonka bean and Tahitian vanilla. This was matched with a Bareito Malvasia Full Rich 5 years old Madeira. A variety of flavours that settled us down where we ultimately concluded the evening with a couple of glasses of Armagnac.

This has to be one of the most comfortable dining experiences that I have had in years which was certainly encouraged by the very attentive, intelligent and amusing service team. My palate in the end was challenged by the combination of new tastes that I never thought would complement one another where some quality wines were enjoyed, some new intelligence was in turn found and most importantly the entire experience led to the four and a half hours to fly by as pleasant conversation was in turn motivated by all of the positive experiences. What impressed me to no end that everything from the food, drink, service and ambiance was elegant and not flashy. Haute cuisine does exist in Melbourne and it is found at Jacques Reymond. 

Take me home.

Jacques Reymond

Link to review

78 Williams Road  Prahran VIC 3181
(03) 9525 2178

http://www.jacquesreymond.com.au

My Rating: 18.75/20

Service: 5/5

Ambiance: 4.75/5

Quality: 4.5/5

Value For Money: 4.5/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 85% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon also like Jacques Reymond.

Three Bags Full - Eddie McGuire Laughs

Another Sunday and another much dreaded breakfast. The only thing that I insisted on is if that I was going to have to go for breakfast that it was going to have to be somewhere new and supposedly cool like Three Bags Full in Collingwood. I reflected the other week when I vistied Chez Dre that I normally do not partake in breakfast unless I determine that I am going to be a social outcast unless that I partake or of course I need some fundamentals before watching the Cricket all day. Fortunately for me the latter was true on this rainy Sunday and I found myself at Three Bags Full in Collingwood after taking the train from Southbank.

Three Bags Full is situated on the leafy Nicholson Street in the home of the mighty Magpies. Housed within painted brick walls you will find a crack team of professionals servicing primarily hipsters but they seemingly never segregate against us city dwellers let alone the fashionable members from the South. Amusing local art hangs from the whitewashed walls whilst simple beats play from the speakers which are not offensive but actually add to the ambiance whilst hounds bark and babies cry.

It only took ten minutes to secure a communal table. I had not enjoyed a communal table since attending the Hardware Societe, but it gave us an opportunity to blend into the restaurant: one that did not require us to evoke the ghost of Eddie Maguire or even the bet that I lost on the Magpies two years ago with the locals to be able to fit in - we were able to fit in by default.

I ordered the special - Buckwheat crepes with pulled braised lamb shoulder, poached eggs with mushrooms and a mint yoghurt. It seemed like a bold call for a breakfast but it sounded so bold and tasty. I was not disappointed. Oddly everyone else at the communal table also received their respective dishes at the same time that we did and all I could notice was how colourful and appetising that everything looked. After I invaded my poached eggs with my clean fork and watched them bleed over my crepes, consuming the mushrooms with their faux sunshine I knew that I was in for a treat. Matched with the harsh black long black coffee, I knew that my journey by train was worth it.

The service was very efficient and knowing that the other offerings on the menu were very attractive if not tasty judging from what the others at the communal table were saying, I am upset at myself for not attending to Three Bags Full sooner. Sadly my aversion from the train kept me away but that will not be the case in the future when I want to enjoy a breakfast. Hell, I could walk there and it would be worth the sweat.

Although The Hardware Societe and Chez Dre remain close to my heart when I think of places that I can enjoy a Sunday breakfast before the Cricket, Three Bags Full shines through because of the awesome food, coffee and service. Still knowing that all three are on offer on rotation, regardless if the Cricket is on, make me a happy guy - and I am not even a bloke that enjoys breakfast. For those that do, you not only have a choice but are in for a treat.

Three Bags Full
Link to review
Corner of Nicholson St and Mollison St  Abbotsford VIC 3067
(03) 9421 2732
http://www.threebagsfullcafe.com.au
My Rating: 12.75/20
Service: 3.25/5
Ambiance: 3/5
Quality: 3.25/5
Value For Money: 3.25/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 85% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon like Three Bags Full.

Station Hotel (Footscray) - Inclusive

Not to be confused with the Station Hotel in Prahran which incidentally is closing at the end of December 2012, the Station Hotel in Footscray is a magnificent if not random find. I knew it wasn't far away from Costco in Docklands but for whatever reason it wasn't until just the other day that I ventured there for a late lunch.

Looking at the building on the corner of Napier and Hyde Streets you would think that you were in a small country village in England. It looked quaint and nothing like I imagined that I would find in multicultural Footscray of all places.

I had to reference a Psychology textbook when considering the Station Hotel and what I observed after entering. We are all familiar with "locals" that frequent bars and pubs, and in this case, the trendy term can be applied, "gastropub" where locals are "Insider's" and all the others are considered "outsider's" which are in turn highly evocative terms. Insiders are supposed to be "in the know," which sounds positive, but they may also be seen as having an unfair advantage. Outsiders are ambiguous, often being seen as being excluded and negative, but occasionally as having an objectivity or freedom not possessed by people who have a stake in their membership in a class or system. An outside observer of a family or business may be an "outside agitator" but may also make observations and offer good advice because he or she is not so involved in the rewards and punishments of the system. I suppose I am the outside observer of sorts.

Since starting this blog five months ago, I have frequently seen the "Inside/Outside" contrast alive and well in places that I normally would not visit and all too frequently in places that I either like or actually consider myself a local. With the all that in mind, this concept although seemingly valid by looking around the venue, once you dig deeper, chat and listen, I have found it to be one of the few places where you can feel included despite how you are dressed, what you may do for a living (some patrons were on furlough from an office building, others appeared to have been doing roadworks in the morning) or if you are a tourist, hipster, local or even an interested party like me looking for good value, good times and good food. It was refreshing and humbling to say the least.

Having only have heard good things about the steak on offer at this place, I instead opted for the Gippsland lamb rump with pommes boulangeres, local asparagus and sauce Navarin ($38) and I am so pleased that I did. It arrived a perfect medium rare, with a nice charred flavour and cooked simply which I would be so bold as describe as the Heston Blumenthal technique. The lamb had obviously been rested and it was the perfect temperature when served. The asparagus was fresh and crunchy and full of flavour. After my recent trip to Attica, I wondered if this produce was farmed in Ben Shewry's garden as it was so good. My dining companion enjoyed the Penne, spicy bolgnaise, peas and fresh ricotta ($18) and he couldn't stop saying how good it was and was slightly taken back by the large portion size.

I kept myself hydrated with 4 Pines and Mountain Goat Beer whilst enjoying this gastropub experience. There is a small beer garden of sorts that would have made a relaxed place to dine and hang out however on this occasion it was raining so I thought better of it.

If only the Station Hotel was within walking distance to Southbank, I would make it my local. I haven't felt at "home" as much as I did in this pub since I lived in Sydney and made the Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel my home away from home. The great thing about the Station Hotel though is this exciting menu where I look forward to returning many times. I was also happy to learn that The Wayside Inn is its sister venue which is within walking distance from me so I am keen to visit it and as you would expect, report back on here soon.

Station Hotel
Link to review
59 Napier Street  Footscray VIC 3011
(03) 9687 2913
http://www.thestationhotel.com.au
My Rating: 13.5/20
Service: 2.75/5
Ambiance: 3/5
Quality: 4.5/5
Value For Money: 3/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 85% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon like the Station Hotel.

Attica - Blown Away

Attica always seems to remain off my radar because I know that I have to take private transport (or good god, public transport) to get to it in Ripponlea from the Melbourne CBD. My twelve minute or thereabouts ride on the train though seemed minuscule really when you think how long it takes to walk to various Melbourne eateries when you factor in the traffic on the footpath in and around town. Not to be hard done by the train though, we presented ourselves early for our 8:30 PM booking.

An enthusiastic yet professional greeting was had upon introducing ourselves at the door. Like with my recent experience at Ezard, we were not given the best table in the house but it was by far from bad. Attica can best be described to have a cosy table configuration in the centre of the restaurant where the best tables in my opinion border the perimeter. I had the pleasure of dining a table on the perimeter however it was the closest to the front door. In the winter, I would hate to experience the blast of cold from the outside as the elements would frequently invade the restaurant when the door was propped open for long periods of time as diners oddly made their exit and had to communicate their platitudes to all and sundry. As it was a warm evening in Melbourne on the night I had the pleasure of dining at this place, I took no notice of this malfeasance if not inconvenience for some.

We announced our intention to enjoy the eight course tasting menu with the matched wines to our server, Michael, who throughout the night remained not only professional but good-humoured and informative.

As the various amuse-bouches, yes, plural, were brought out in rapid fire I took the time to absorb the ambiance. The fit-out of the restaurant, albeit cosy  has not changed much since I last attended two years ago however as I sipped the sparking water that was being refilled almost by magic I mused as to what chef Ben Shewry was trying to communicate with the dark colours, minimal yet aggressive lighting and the configuration of the restaurant in general. I thought of the last play that I saw at the Malthouse Theatre as I pondered the surrounds and the lighting. Strangely though as I watched service deliver food and beverage to other happy diners that were seemingly in various stages of their respective degustation experiences, I thought of this restaurant as a stage of sorts. Not in the bogus sense that the diners were the audience though, but quite the opposite. The kitchen who are armed with a large centrifuge in the background peaks out at times on us diners, or should I say, us actors and actresses in the play which they have written and executed where we are left to our own devices to interpret. The track lighting making the diner the star in a very well orchestrated production that is brought to life by the superior service and support staff. Still in retrospect I suppose the play that Ben has intended is a comedy of sorts where the kitchen and staff are able to be amused at us plebeians grunting, pointing and making sounds that resemble "ew and aw" and in turn reflecting whether or not they really like what is on offer.

The highlight of the amuse-bouche phase for me being the walnut reduction served inside a walnut shell, where the innards of the shell are exposed to you by service. Subterfuge is alive and well at Attica and as you start your journey through the menu, you discover that the walnut especially will prepare your palate for the first dish - Snow Crab, Shiitake, Twelve Basils matched with a Sake from Nagano, Japan - Chikuma Nishiki 'Kizan Sanban' Junmai Ginjo, which is not only high quality Sake, but it brought the Snow Crab to life. Already having the walnut flavours on my palate heightened my appreciation of this dish and my glass of Sake had to be refilled so that I could continue to enjoy it and the residual effects of the crab. This would become a recurring theme as there is a small duration between when you receive your matched alcohol and when your dish appears.

We then were taken to Austria where a 2006 Welitsch 'Ex Vero' was provided to match with the Marron and Fermented Corn that would soon follow. Another excellent dish with a beautiful smell. I would soon learn that the majority of the produce is sourced from gardens outside of the restaurant or at the furthest extreme, Ripponlea Estate. Colourful, crisp and exciting flavours are yielded and for once it was refreshing knowing where all of the ingredients were actually sourced as a diner (or in this case an actor in Ben's play) you really take it for granted when you are at a restaurant usually unless you are made aware, usually inconveniently.

I have seen some lampoon the next dish online, the matter-of-factly called "A simple dish of Potato cooked in the earth it was grown" matched with a 2007 Dario Princic 'Bianco Trebez" from Friuli, Italy. There is nothing silly or pretentious about this dish. The potato is cooked in the earth that it was grown in and I will be so bold as to say it was the best potato that I have ever had. I sliced it thinly whilst I used my tongue to compress it against the roof of my mouth where it soaked up the residual evidence of the wine as I consumed what was on offer and had another glass whilst I ruminated this technique. If Coles had not only potatoes but the actual dirt for sale, I would buy it and use it to prepare them. The dish and the preparation technique is quite exciting, if not intriguing.

Ben's wicked garden must be thriving as the next dish, a zesty offering of Cucumbers, Sauce of Burnet and Dried River Trout was presented along with a sample of the 2011 Gaia "Thalassitis" Assyriko from Santorini, Greece. My biggest complaint when I left the Press Club was that the wine man never educated my clever mate and I about the few Greek wines that were on offer so up until this point I never had a clear appreciation of anything from Greece as the wine had never been effectively marketed to me - anywhere really. I found it queer yet amusing that Banjo Harris Plane choose a Greek wine of all things to match with this produce-intensive dish however after having the wine introduced and then tasting it with the produce, I really understood and was grateful for the pair. The wine certainly highlighted the bold yet crisp taste of the crunchy and fresh cucumbers but the sauce is what matched well and nothing overwhelmed the dried trout but in fact only highlighted its simple and clean taste. This was one of the stand-out dishes of the night and it would not have been the case if the wine match was not so effective.

The King George Whiting in Paperbark followed along with 2010 Yeringberg Marsanne/Rousanne from our own Yarra Valley. The fish came wrapped in bark and when it was exposed a myriad of smells were released and my senses were piqued. I separated the fish with my fork slowly and fed myself at a snails pace whilst I enjoyed the wine attempting to drag this experience out as long as I could. I would spent at least 15 minutes eating the fish a few grams at a time and immersed myself in the smells of the food and beverage - a beautiful dish which challenged and enlightened me.

When I stopped my preoccupation with sights, tastes and smells and when the pleasant conversation took an intermission I heard KC & The Sunshine Band playing "Get Down Tonight" which I thought was fitting. Not since I was last at Virginia Plain did I find a background soundtrack so appropriate but yet not intrusive at all as it took a number of courses before I would even notice it. The next song was "Porcelain" by Moby which eased me into the most exciting dish that I have had in years.

Flinders Island Wallaby, Bunya Pine and Ground Berry. Who would have thought? I knew Shannon Bennett was serving Wallaby on occasion at Vue de Monde however this was the first time that I experienced the beast. Matched with an Isole e Olena "Cepparello" from Tuscany, I savoured small tastes and would ultimately need my wine glass refreshed once more to finish this bold course. When you are seated you are informed that Wallaby is on the menu and the particular nuances involved with bringing it from Flinders Island to your plate. Some people it would seem are offended by this dish or have some sort of preconceived notion about it. All I can say it is bloody (sic) amazing and it is now one of my favourite dishes that I have ever had.

After a bit of a break, proceedings continued with Native Fruits of Australia matched with a Maidenii Vermouth 'Aperitif' from Bendigo. It was very refreshing and invigorating, yet another testament to Ben's respect for produce and the way that it is grown, prepared and presented.

The aptly named "Plight of the Bees" followed, which is a multi-layered dessert where honey is used as the primary ingredient however once all the layers are merged across your palate, when paired with the 2009 Gunderlock 'Nackenheim Rothenberg' Auslese Goldkap, it was an orgy of flavours that probably can be classed as my favourite dessert that I have ever had. I am not a big dessert person however this simply blew my away.

I did not want the experience to end so I requested more wine and also suggested that if the kitchen had anything that they were experimenting with that they could part with, we were happy to try it. Michael delivered an "Afghan" which looked like a bowl of breakfast cereal, but in fact was another dessert that contained a myriad of sweet sensations. I recently reflected after I visited Chez Dre that I do not normally eat breakfast however if this was on offer every day, it wouldn't matter if I used a spoon, my fingers or my tongue, it would end up in my stomach. Of course on the flip-side after a while my stomach would be engorged but knowing that I would have to step up the frequency of my visits to the gym to compensate is a small price to pay for this delight.

Much to my surprise, there was another twist in the play. The finale turned out to be Pukeko eggs served in a nest. Not real eggs from the purple Swamphen of New Zealand, but white chocolate egg shells complemented with brown spots to mimic the appearance of the real thing which are filled with salted caramel. You are also provided an information sheet about the Pukeko which I thought was an interesting and insightful touch as it provided a further insight to the psychology of Ben Shewry, who is a native of New Zealand.

The last meal that I reference as being the "best" that I have had was enjoyed at Vue de Monde in December 2007. The awesome degustation experience that I just wrote about comes very close to usurping Vue de Monde for its top stop in my humble opinion and it will at least be remembered for years to come. Fortunately for me I can and will come back regularly to now that I live in Melbourne and this place will consistently be referred to as one my "favourites" often.

Attica is ranked #63 on the current San Pelligrino World Restaurant rankings, has been awarded three chefs hats by The Age and for what it is worth, is ranked #1 on my list of restaurants that I have reviewed to date on this blog. 

Attica
Link to review
74 Glen Eira Rd, Ripponlea, VIC 3185
(03) 9530 0111
http://www.attica.com.au
My Rating: 17.5/20
Service: 4.5/5
Ambiance: 4/5
Quality: 5/5
Value For Money: 4/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 84% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon like Attica.

Ezard - Beguiling

Although I had visited Teage Ezard's second restaurant in Melbourne, Gingerboy, multiple times over the years, attending his flagship restaurant, Ezard, on Flinders Lane somehow eluded me until last week.

Proceedings commenced at Gin Palace with their sublime Gin & Tonic #2's since Ezard was not expecting us until 9:00 PM. Although our intention of having the signature Ezard degustation option was announced to the restaurant when the booking was made, I was fearful that the experience would be amalgamated into a frenzy of activity and be over in the blink of an eye considering the start time. The restaurant however assured us that would not be the case and in fact that you can order the degustation menu up until 10:30 PM. That is impressive.

We arrived early for our booking taking a chance that our table would be ready and we were not disappointed. The lovely lady who greeted us at the door turned out to be our server and led us to our table. It wasn't the best table in the house by far but I was happy to be seated away from the M1: the main thoroughfare of the restaurant that borders the bar and will also take you to the lavatories.

Sparking water quickly arrived along with bread. I ordered a classic Gin & Tonic to begin with. Without looking at the menu, I announced to the server that we would be enjoying the (eight) course degustation option. She said that I should still review the menu but I indicated that I like to be surprised.

The restaurant manager, Quentin wandered over to give salutations and greetings. We both recognised each other from the old Vue de Monde on Little Collins Street as he had the (dis)pleasure in those days of looking after my table on occasion. At that point, I knew that we were in good hands.

One of the signature dishes, a Japanese inspired oyster shooter arrived in tandem with Quentin holding a bottle of 2012 Kirei Shuzo 'Karakuchi 80' Junmai Nama Genshu Sake from Hiroshima, Japan. I can certainly understand why this is considered a signature dish. An explosion of tastes ensued and when aptly paired with the Sake, not only did I have a new found respect for the restaurant but appreciated the way that the Sake did not overpower the shooter and the shooter in turn did not overpower the Sake. Most people believe that wine is best matched with raw bivalves but this is not the case. Sake in my humble opinion is the most natural and logical pair and it is very rare to find a degustation that will exploit this delicate balance for all it is worth.


Citrus and vodka cured salmon, black quinoa, olive oil jam, smoked yoghurt, tangerine vinaigrette matched with a 2000 Pol Roger Brut was the next colourful delight to be presented to us. Simple but effective matching of the delicate seafood tastes with the champagne were highlighted by the enigmatic olive oil jam. What a mysterious and intriguing taste. Beside the oyster shooter, the taste of the jam is what left the greatest impression on my palate. The diner is also left to their own devices to add a variety of spices that languish on your table and this is the dish that is best enhanced by them.

Whenever I am presented with spanner crab, I am a happy man. Fortunately for me, the third dish was a steamed spanner crab dumpling with Yarra Valley salmon roe. Spanner crab playing hide and seek in a dumpling was a novel approach that certainly worked. I am a bit biased when it comes to spanner crab as it is classically one of my favourite foods and the restaurant did not let me down.

A salad of beetroot, asparagus and Jamon Serrano, parmesan custard and a black truffle vinaigrette was next. Beetroot is usually not suited for me and I have never had it with Jamon Serrano before. The result was a pleasant surprise. It just proves if you keep an open mind that you can find simple delights in food that you would not normally appreciate. At home I want to experiment with the beetroot and a Jamon Iberico now and see what that is like.

I thought it was adventurous to pair the next dish, a pan roasted baby barramundi with carmelised eggplant, tomato and lime salad with yellow curry dressing and a Dolcetto. A 2010 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba. The onmnipresent floral smell certainly paired well with the baby barramundi and the wine never overpowered the fish, which was the first thing that I was concerned about when I saw the match unfold.

Moving from a floral bouquet to a rich apple one followed with the slow cooked Bangalow pork belly with apple pudding, fennel, white peach and calvados jus. Just looking at the pork and you just know in theory that it should be bad for you - but the things that are supposedly bad for your health are so damn good. If the pork was any softer it would be emulsified. A very tasty dish that actually melted in my mouth.

When you order the degustation menu, you are asked to make one choice - choose between the Chinese style roast duck and the Wagyu beef. Feeling very gluttonous as we could not make a choice (nobody should have to choose between those two dishes) we opted to enjoy them both much to the surprise of the restaurant however anything is possible provided that you are willing and able to pay the surcharge for the pleasure.

The duck with green chilli and an oyster sauce dressing was matched with a 2010 By Farr "Farrside" Pinot Noir from Geelong. I love Pinot Noir and most recently have come to appreciate the offerings from Geelong (thanks Pinot Palooza!) however I thought that this big and bold Pinot went well with the duck and the introduction of the spice along with the green chilli was exciting.

Thinking about it more, it was probably silly of me to order the additional course as I felt like I was going to explode when the eight score Wagyu beef with potato terrine, garlic, red wine jam, mushroom soil and a bordelaise jus came out. The 2002 Hans Herzog "Spirit of Marlborough" Merlot Cabernet was paired with this oddly delicate steak. I would have liked to have seen it matched with a wine from Bordeaux as that is where the recipe for the jus originated however I liked it. I was starting to like everything though as my alcohol intake for the day was starting to overwhelm my sensibilities.

A very generous serving of five different cheeses concluded our evening and although a dessert tasting place was on offer, I physically got not eat any more.

Ezard beguiled me however not in a deceptive way. It lived up to its good reputation and Quentin and the team looked after us well. Most importantly the food and wine encouraged pleasant conversation for the four hours that we were at the restaurant and made for a memorable evening (and the start of the morning) and for that I am grateful.

Ezard
Link to review
187 Flinders Lane  Melbourne VIC 3000
(03) 9639 6811
http://www.ezard.com.au
My Rating: 16.25/20
Service: 4.5/5
Ambiance: 3.5/5
Quality: 4.25/5
Value For Money: 4/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this post, 85% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon like Ezard.

Virgin Australia Business Class Food and Beverage

Epicurean delights can be found in the most unusual places. After being loyal to Qantas until just before Alan Joyce grounded the fleet, I gave Virgin Business and their Lounge at Sydney airport a try. That was around 18 months ago and I was so impressed not only with the service afforded to me by the Lounge but also at the time, the Virgin Premium Economy offering, I switched brand loyalty and have not regretted it since.

Earlier in the year, Virgin Australia transformed its fleet and upgraded their aircraft to directly compete with Qantas Business Class. The "Premium Economy" offering was replaced with "Business Class" and I was one of the first adopters and have consistently been impressed even on the short-haul commuter flights between Melbourne and Sydney and vice-versa.

After flying Virgin flight DJ957 yesterday (10/12/12) from Sydney to Brisbane I thought it would be worth it to reflect on the food and beverage experience.

Normally I do my best to put a dent in the supply of "Fat Yak" that is found in bottles in the Lounge before boarding the plane. Business Class passengers are greeted enthusiastically at the forward entrance to the plane (and allowed to bypass the queue) where you are guaranteed space in the overhead compartment for your bags to rest. You are immediately offered a beverage whilst the passengers board and on this occasion I opted for some sparkling water which was served in a proper glass with a slice of lemon.

After departing on-time (which for me is a common occurrence on Virgin flights, compared to Qantas) the cabin supervisor, Hayley, introduced herself and advised me of the two Luke Mangan (Glass, Sydney; Salt, Singapore) designed and/or inspired food offerings. After the seat belt indicator was turned off, Hayley returned with a gin & tonic (beefeater gin with equal parts gin and tonic as she prepared it in front of me in a tall glass) and I decided on the Pumpkin and Feta salad. Normally I do not order food since I tend to have dining plans at the destination but on this particular occasion after flying from Melbourne to Sydney earlier and not eating all day, I was ravenous.

The meal that was presented was substantial when you consider the offerings typically found on aircraft. What has always impressed me is that you are provided polished and real utensils and enough to consume two light courses. The polished silverware is a nice touch.

The spinach base was fresh and chilled, as was the pumpkin. It was not too cold though. It was complemented by soft beans and very strong feta which was soft but not dry. All of the elements were rather fresh and worked well together. The bread that was provided was warm, but not hot but also soft. The butter was also formed and soft and easily mashed. Some care went into putting together this dish on the airline to achieve the various temperatures and it was obvious that the food was stored properly. A pastry was also provided (the second course) and was much colder than the salad, and was very tasty.

During service Hayley would return a few additional times to make sure that I was hydrated with a constant supply of Beefeater gin, which complemented the salad, which in turn with the bread and pastry would ultimately be able to tide me over until my dinner reservation at 9:00 PM.

Epicurean delights can take many forms and sometimes come in the most surprising places. It impressed me enough to write about it on this blog. If you get the change to fly Virgin Business Class, even if you can exchange frequent flier points for the Business Class option, it is really worth it as it also includes Virgin Lounge access, which is certainly a marked improvement on the Qantas Club, which incidentally I never renewed that membership when it expired a year ago.

Brisbane is never my destination of choice and I usually end up in Queensland by chance these days however on this trip, I remain grateful to Hayley and the crew of flight DJ957 yesterday for the great in-flight experience and making my first dining and drinking foray in the sky as I crossed into Queensland a great and seemingly memorable one.

Paco's Tacos - Frank is probably at Mamasita

Original review published on 15/07/2012 and updated for currency and re-rated after two revisits on 07/12/2012.

Having visited Mexico multiple times and becoming accustomed to dirty street "authentic" food, I always visit new Mexican-inspired eateries with both trepidation and anxiety. When I learned that Movida was launching Paco's Tacos in the forecourt outside of their Movida Aqui restaurant I was hopeful that they would get it right and I would have a place where I could easily wander to from Southbank and enjoy comfort food in a relaxed outdoor area on demand.

When I first wrote a review about Paco's Tacos, I was indifferent to the experience but after revisiting it another two times over the last three months, my perception has changed. During the lunch time rush at 500 Bourke Street, the office workers inundate this place, smoke the dreaded cancer sticks and no doubt ponder their forthcoming urgent meetings whilst enjoying $6 tacos. I have come to enjoy the Carnitas (pulled pork with pineapple sauce) along with the Carne Asada (braised beef, chipotle and carne asada) however have taken a recent fancy to the Pescado (marinated fish, chipotle and radish) however at times I have found the fish to be very moist and the taco to be very messy so if you are wearing your best Armani suit, beware.

The biggest drawback to this place that I have found is that there never seems to be enough staff working behind the counter to meet the demand. In this brave new world where everyone pays with a plastic card and only one register can accommodate this payment method, every time I have frequented this place this shortcoming to their infrastructure has caused some massive bottlenecks and queues. The staff also must endure special requests to modify the $6 tacos (hold the salsa, hold the rice, hold the shell, etc) whilst organising beverages and dealing with the register. Once they streamline the service counter, this place will rock.

As we move from spring to summer, I am finding the forecourt where Paco's Tacos to be located (outside of MoVida Aqui) to be a very relaxed and convenient location. They do have a good selection of Mexican beer and not just the piss that is known as Corona and also sangria available however personally I do not like the recipe that they use.

Paco's Tacos
Link to review
1/500-512 Bourke Street  Melbourne VIC 3000
(03) 9663 3038
http://www.pacostacos.com.au
My Rating: 12.5/20
Service: 2.5/5
Ambiance: 3.5/5
Quality: 3/5
Value For Money: 3.5/5
Comment: All tacos are $6

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

At the time of this repost, 74% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon like Paco's Tacos.

The Local (Port Melbourne) - Proper Pub and Grub

In yesterday's post on Jimbo & Rex I was carrying on that there is no longer a proper pub at the Crown Casino. Upon pondering it more, I haven't come across many actual pubs. Most have some silly theme, are trying to be something that they shouldn't and some shockingly do not even have LCD screens playing the sport.

Although it is a bit of a walk from me in Southbank, I stumbled across The Local on Bay Street in Port Melbourne not long ago. Televisions playing repeats of the EPL, Cricket and even AFL games which were contested six months ago adorned the walls. Even booths were retrofitted to have their own LCD screens playing the sport. How intimately cool is that?

The soiled green carpet and old wood panelling gives it some character however the true characters are those languishing at the bar enjoying their pints of Carlton Draught. These patrons looked like they had been there since the place started trading and it didn't look as if they were going to be dislodged any time soon.

The menu had all of the classics that you would find in a true pub. Steak, parma, pasta... but I opted for the Lamb Shank Pie: slow-cooked lamb shank in Guinness sauce with mashed potatoes and peas, topped with golden puff pastry for $23. As I knocked back my Carlton Draught, the pie was delivered to my table by the window. It was huge. I mean HUGE! I would soon find after exposing the lamb shank under the pastry that it was still on the bone which led to a serious amount of flavour absorbed by the ingredients in the innards. Another pint was ordered and I took to the challenge of consuming the beast. I lost in the end but the fight was well worth it.

Visit this place if you are looking for pub food and a relaxed atmosphere especially if you are keen to watch the sport. It is as simple as catching the tram from the CBD. Too easy.

The Local

Link to review

24 Bay Street
Port Melbourne VIC 3207
(03) 9646 0072

http://www.thelocalportmelbourne.com.au

No Ratings Offered

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I made this post originally, 77% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon liked The Local however the sample was taken out of a very small 45 votes.

Jimbo & Rex - Caterpillar to Chrysalis

About a month ago, I wandered to the "West End" of the Crown Casino with the hopes of enjoying a few quiet ales at the so-called "The Pub at Crown" which has been a convenient venue to frequent to catch up with mates and watch sport before hitting the tables with impunity. On this particular occasion I found the pub shut and the space being renovated, along with the site next door. Frankly, I was a bit pissed off as I enjoyed watching the sport at this pub and would later migrate to the Merrywell to placate this basic need.

Not long ago a mate wanted to catch up after work and it was his turn to nominate the location so he said that we should try Jimbo & Rex. "I know not of what you refer to kind sir" was the family friendly response that I will transpose on this blog but after sharing a few obscenities and making proclamations that we needed to get liquored up before taking on the tables at Crown, I finally realised that the old "The Pub at Crown" site had re-opened and is now Jimbo & Rex and was indeed not out in the Dandendong Ranges.

Upon entering the old pub that originally looked like a caterpillar I noticed that it had turned into a chrysalis. It was quite the metamorphosis. A long curving bar greets you and the rest of the space has been turned into a restaurant. We were most interested in the bar, so we pulled up stools and ordered Carlton Draught. As you would expect, pints are charged at $9/each however at the point in time we didn't care as we had planned to own the casino by the end of the night. The barman was efficient and friendly but then again we were the only ones at the bar so he didn't have to do much at the time. We noticed that there were $9.90 specials on the way in however we quickly learned after making a polite query that they were not available at the bar and instead there was a bar menu for food. I thought that was strange since if I fell off my stool, my head would hit one of the tables in the restaurant so I was surprised that you actually had to move a metre to enjoy the specials. So we laughed and mocked this policy amongst ourselves whilst we enjoyed more $9 pints.

After four pints each, we announced that we were going to shuffle a few metres over and order some food off the real menu. We were advised that the tab can not be transferred from the bar to the restaurant as the system does not allow it. So we endured the process and closed out the tab and started another one a metre away at the table. The full restaurant menu seemingly is not available at the bar.

I ordered the Roast Beef sandwich ($17) with ultimately came with a slaw and "Big Boy" chips. There was far too much bread and capsicum compared to beef which was chewy. The "Big Boy" chips were nice and matched well with my cellared six day old Carlton Draught. It was a while before I could try the slaw as I had to remind the server that I am not out in the Dandenong Ranges on a bushwalk so I would prefer to eat it with a utensil, which originally was not provided.  My mate had the 500g T-Bone Steak ($34) and after he kindly shared a bite with me, we lamented as to why we just didn't stop around at the bar at Rockpool Bar & Grill on the ground floor as there was nothing special about it. A mere $159 doesn't get you much these days it would seem.

The service was genuinely trying their damnedest to do their best and the service manager was actively out on the floor providing direction the staff constantly. It may be because the place is relatively new that they are experiencing some opening pains however when I think of this place compared to what you can get at say Merrywell, which is a mere 25m away and accessible from the same level of the casino, I would head there in a heartbeat next time. Without actually going into the casino, it is now rather difficult to get a quiet drink at Crown. As The Waiting Room changed hands and Jimbo & Rex not a proper boozer, I will have to continue to hunt for somewhere in the complex to satisfy my basic primal needs.

This would make a good venue to meet a group of mates on the weekend for some quick and cheerful food. I would never think of it as a primary destination for a night out but as a service stop so to speak before enjoying everything Crown has on offer. Just keep in mind that you will be hoping to realise your dreams of owning the casino after the bill is presented to you.

Jimbo & Rex

Link to review

Level 1, West End, Crown Casino
Southbank VIC 3006
(03) 9690 2688

http://www.crownmelbourne.com.au/jimbo-and-rex

My Rating: 10.5/20

Service: 2.5/5

Ambiance: 3/5

Quality: 2.5/5

Value For Money: 2.5/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I made this post originally, 89% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon liked Jimbo & Rex however the sample was taken out of a very small 48 votes.

Chez Dré - The Doctor Is In

In defiance of all of the usual healthy recommendations from Bupa and every other subject matter expert, I remain steadfast in not eating breakfast daily. I haven't since I was in Year 9 when I raged against the machine and although many would say that I am ridiculous, I do not feel as if my life has been adversely affected by this life choice. However there are rare occasions that I do fall into the morning food trap. These include social events as I do not want to appear to be a leper, before I go snowboarding (feed me carbs!) or if I am planning a huge day enjoying tasty alcoholic beverages whilst the cricket is being broadcast.

Although it seems like an epoch has passed now, it was only a week ago that I met a mate at a patisserie/boulangerie/café called Chez Dré in South Melbourne to socialise over breakfast but to also prepare our bodies for the impending torture it was going to experience at the pub watching the Cricket all afternoon. Normally I find breakfast a chore when I am tasked to enjoy it, with the only exception for the year being a visit to the Hardware Societe, but it surely wasn't this time - in fact it turned out to be a delightful experience.

Chez Dré was buzzing on this mild Sunday morning. There were couples reading the newspaper together, tourists, prams, hipsters waiting for coffee to takeaway, babies giggling and what it seemed to be a fair amount of locals languishing around nursing hangovers and catching up about debauchery experienced from the previous evening. At least that is what I overheard after we were seated in the outdoor eating area after about a three minute wait.

Provided the weather is accommodating, the patio is a great place to hang out. You are not cramped and you feel not only welcome but are immediately relaxed. Perhaps living in the CBD essentially I do not get the opportunity to dine under a tree that sheds pollen so it was a new experience for me which I found it idyllic. An oasis of sorts. Fortunately the pollen only ended up entangled in my hair and not in my breakfast or coffee which I would ultimately order.

After being escorted to our table, a coffee order was quickly made. After walking to South Melbourne from Southbank, I was fiending for coffee so I was hypersensitive to the wait. It seemed like ages until it arrived however with the amount of people enqueued for takeaway coffee and every other table seemingly ordering it, I could understand the delay. It was well worth the wait though and the large long black recharged me in no time.

After waiting for coffee, we ordered Le Grand Petit Déjeuner ($19.50) which is what we normally refer to as The Big Breakfast. The usual suspects were included when the food came out, about 20 minutes after ordering. The poached eggs were not only prepared perfectly, they looked great and I would discover that in the few seconds that it took me to devour them, they tasted great. The sausages were minted and pleasant for relaxing breakfast. The rosti was unique. It was not quite a hash brown but a lightly fried variant which was certainly giving me the foundations for the beer that I intended to consume later in the pub. Interesting enough, the highlight for me which brought all of the flavours together and actually gave me an idea for something that I can easily prepare at home that would not only entertain but intrigue is the "smashed avacado" with a feta cheese infusion. This was a new blend of sorts for me and I found it amazing. It brought together all of the elements in this big breakfast and made it very enjoyable.

As I was streaming the cricket broadcast to my phone, we were in no rush to leave so we ordered more coffee. Another 20 minute wait yielded another cup however they brought out a small cup this time instead of repeating my order for a large cup. I watched the queue for the restaurant form in the laneway and people get anxious about their wait. It seems we lucked out however the wait propagates throughout your experience at Chez Dré. If you are interested in quick service or being able to rock up and be seated quickly, this is probably not the place that you want to frequent but if you are instead more interested in the quality of food, enjoying the ancient art of socialising and actually taking advantage of spending time with others unencumbered by the stress of schedules, I would highly recommend Chez Dré.

Whilst waiting to pay (notice the overarching theme) I was able to enjoy free tastes of cheesecake that was on offer, temping you to order desserts and treats to takeaway from their extensive display cabinet. I thought the quality of the sample was divine and I look forward to sampling some other items from the cabinet next time around.

Chez Dré

Link to review

285-287 Coventry Street
South Melbourne VIC 3205
(03) 9690 2688

http://www.chezdre.com.au

My Rating: 12.5/20

Service: 3/5

Ambiance: 3/5

Quality: 3.5/5

Value For Money: 3/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I made this post originally, 88% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon liked Chez Dré.

Akachochin - Lanterns Made Of Red Papers Beckons

Akachochin, located at South Wharf had been on my list of places to try for quite some time. Having been intrigued after reading the positive press and having it highly recommended by the good folk at Henry and the Fox I made my way there with the hope of enjoying a relaxing Friday lunchtime experience.

To gain access to Akachochin, one must present themselves at The Sharing House next door and announce your intentions to dine. The friendly staff at The Sharing House will then escort you to Akachochin where you will then be greeted again. Without a booking, we were informed that spaces were available at the sushi bar and I happily accepted the invitation to sit there.

A sushi bar in a purported izakaya I found novel but almost necessary for the restaurant to differentiate itself in an area littered with choices and also those fortunate enough to work just over the pedestrian bridge in Docklands that would systematically go on the hunt daily for nutrients at lunch like the hounds of war, ravenous and frothing at the mouth. There was a good selection of fish on display and I did find it intriguing that despite it being stored in a cold enclosure that plastic wrap was still being used to protect it.

The very attentive server was happy to provide water without being asked and when the bottle of sake that I wanted to order was out of stock, he happily consulted with me and I found a suitable alternative - the Kamoshibito Kuhelji Kudan Yamada Junmai-Ginjo a dry sake with good acidity which I thought would be a good match with not only the delicate flavours exuded in the raw fish but also the deep fried dishes that I anticipated enjoying.

The first round of food ordered from the sushi bar included the Maguro Tataki (6 pieces at $18) and the Sushi Moriawase (12 pieces at $33) both I found outstanding. The Maguro Tataki is seared tuna, chives and chilli with a ponzu jelly and anchovy dressing. It matched extremely well with the sake and borders on being one of my favourite fish dishes that I have found (it would be high up on my list of tasty delights that I had at both Taxi Dining Room and Nobu recently) which was all very exciting.

Being pleasantly surprised by the sushi offerings, we continued to explore this part of the menu whilst enjoying the sake. Shiromi Uzsukuri (9 pieces at $15) and the Shake Aburi Sushi (4 pieces at $18) were then ordered to round out this sushi experience. The Skake Aburi Sushi, sweet soy marinated seared salmon with a very special onion salsa was the sandout. I could have ordered another six rounds of this however I didn't want to deprive myself from experiencing things off of the deep and simmer fried menus.

The Ebi and Pumpkin Harumaki ($13) was a very intriguing spring roll filled with prawn, blue cheese and pumpkin deep fried. I really enjoyed the texture and the pair of this dish with the sake. The blue cheese and pumpkin matched well but the tastes overwhelmed the prawn, however the dish in general was great. I tend to enjoy most dishes that exploit the flavour inherent in blue cheese well.

The Butterfish Nitsuke with Kinpira Gobo ($16) - simmered butterfish in ginger, soy sauce with pan-fried burdock followed. Having been spoiled by the delicate tastes of the sushi earlier and being out of sake didn't allow me to cleanse my palate before enjoying this dish so the blue cheese experienced earlier which lingered in my mouth overwhelmed the butterfish however the smell was absolutely delightful. Vacating the 720ml bottle of sake was indeed a shame however I did really enjoy this dish despite having a dirty palate to start.

A Black Sesame Pannacotta with Green Tea Ice Cream ($14) finished off this two hour tasting extravaganza. That certainly cleansed my palate - in a good way.

The service remained tight, efficient and friendly throughout this dining experience. Generally speaking the other patrons looked happy. Although when I arrived, most of the tables were occupied, I did not find the restaurant loud. The tables are spaced an acceptable distance apart so you would never feel as though you are minding someone else's business.

Overall I was impressed by Akachochin and I look forward to returning. The fish is fresh, the service was efficient and you felt like you could relax. After the stolid service and frozen fish that I enjoyed at Koko, I am very happy to have found a quality Japanese offering in South Wharf.

Akachochin

Link to review

33 South Wharf Promenade

Federation Square, Melbourne VIC 3000

(03) 9245 9900

http://www.akachochin.com.au

My Rating: 14.5/20

Service: 3.5/5

Ambiance: 3.5/5

Quality: 4.0/5

Value For Money: 3.5/5

Twitter: @epicurean3006

e-mail: epicureanofsouthbank (at) gmail (dot) com

web: www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I made this post originally, 90% of the reviewers on Urbanspoon liked Akachochin.